Chef at Large

On the MV Bretagne from Portsmouth we find our cabin and stow our luggage.  To the restaurant for dinner but there was a long queue and we had to put our names on a list to be called when a table became vacant.  To the rear deck, with drinks - Sancerre for me and a beer for D.  The sun was shining as the boat left the harbour and before our drinks were finished we were called to table.  There is always a buffet starter which comprises seafood and cold meats.  I chose poached salmon, langoustines and asparagus wrapped in cured ham and some mayonnaise which was made on the boat, far superior to shop bought stuff.  The main course we chose was beef, rare for me and medium rare for D and mine was superb, so tender and tasty.  The mashed potatoes were coated in a really rich gravy, obviously made from scratch and some tiny onions which were crunchy, sweet and sour.  I’d love the recipe for that!  We thoroughly confused the waiter by asking for Sancerre!  he kept saying “You want WHITE wine?” Dessert was two types of custards, delicious!    Then to the main bar to watch a magician who did not impress us, another glass of wine and so to bed.

To wake up in France under rain clouds!  We didn’t wake early enough to get breakfast or even a tea or coffee  and were on the road by 8.30.  Did I mention the rain?  We eventually found a boulangerie where we got some croissants and pains au chocolate, so much nicer than the packaged supermarket variety.  Then on again in the rain, to find a cafe which was about as friendly as a badger and with not very good coffee.

By the time it got to midday we needed lunch and stopped at the first café we saw and chose the plat du jour which turned out to be fried pork fat, salad with garlic mayo and green beans and chestnuts (in June?) which turned out to be from a jar. I wouldn’t serve that at home even if I was alone!  It was almost inedible!  Asked for a red wine only to be told that it had gone bad and only Muscadet was available - ah well, I’ll have that then!  Dessert was commercial icecream…

To the super market - cherries, tiny melons, apricots, garlic, potatoes, rabbit, bread and Costieres de Nimes to drink.  I’m thinking I’ll concoct a slow cooked rabbit dish for dinner.

Arrive at the Gite, Madame is lovely and speaks slowly so we can understand most of what she says.  The cottage is spacious and light filled, so different from the ones we usually get where the windows are tiny and the lights have 15 watt bulbs in them.  The windows all have electric shutters.  Madame is garrulous and by the time we have explored the problems of the world in relation to the price of oil we are exhausted!  She did, however show me how to work the oven and grill, something that has been sadly lacking in my life in Gites!  Would you have guessed that you right turn the control twice for the oven and three times for the grill?  Me neither!  The bathroom is the best yet, with a high power shower and a bath that has jets in it.  We imagine trying to get out of it and dissolve into giggles.

Our rabbit dinner was good and here they include the kidneys, a little succulent extra.  I wish I’d got some green beans though.  The wine was good to.  Then D says we should go to a local bar to taste the local life.  As we walked in the bartender was fixing an old PC but did manage to get our drinks without too much bad grace.  My red wine was served cold in a tall white wine glass, curious!  Bartender walks without beding his left knee then suddenly leaps into the cellar and hauls up a barrel when he then bends both knees to lift it up onto his shoulder…a woman opposite us sits with a cup of coffee in which she has left the spoon and never puts it down for the whole 30 minutes it takes her to drink it.  There is an old boy at the bar, muttonchop moustache and a ponytail (!) drinking large glasses of Calvados, he turns out to be German.  We then  have a little mystery tour back home where D has cheese and biscuits and I have a little more wine.  What a day!

- Toni Anne

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